This is the other 1/2 of the Fullsac Stage 1 installation write-up; you can find Part I HERE.
Once Debbie was up I was able to head back out to the garage and complete the Fullsac installation.
Step 7: Grid-away two small welds on each of the OEM slip-on exhaust mufflers that hold in the stock baffles (aka, cores), then push the cores out of the exhaust can. Despite getting a bad rap for their effectiveness vs. a true air-powered die-grinder, I used a Dremel tool — albeit a pretty robust model — with a stack of four cut-off wheels to grind down the weld beads and it probably took about a minute per weld. Because the cut-off wheels were stacked, there wasn’t any risk of cutting too deeply into the can. A couple of taps with a large center punch right on each weld and the core’s were free. It was really quite quick and easy.
Step 8: Remove the cores and all of the fiberglass batting material that’s stuffed into the cans. Yeah, it was pretty amazing to see how much material they had packed into the cans and to see the innovative use of yellow, adhesive-covered drywall tape to secure the batting to the cores when it all came out of the can. it was also pretty interesting to see how much rust had already collected on the cores and batting material on a bike that only had 250 miles on the ODO! Seriously, I’m really glad I decided to make this change early rather than later.
Step 9: Salvage 1/2 of the batting material and use it with the Fullsac expanded steel muffler sleeves to provide some additional sound insulation around the cores; this was a slick idea! Just gotta watch the edges of the expanded steel: yeouch! Those suckers can bite if you’re not wearing gloves. Ref. the photos below, at left is a stock core with the batting pulled away: not a pretty sight. At right, the dual exhaust cans with 50% less batting held up against the walls of the can by the Fullsac expanded steel sleeves. (Note: I put all of the batting back in after the first road trip to knock down the on-bike din of the exhaust: details here.)
Step 10: A little touch-up paint went over the spots where the welds were ground off to prevent corrosion / rust and then a 1/4″ hole was cut in the ends of each can for the new Fullsac core’s set-screws. Slide the cores into the cans, put in the set-screws, re-install the end caps, heat shields and then install the modified slip-ons on the bike. Pretty simple and if the bike isn’t running most folks would never guess that the bike has a full, open header exhaust system: it looks dead stock! Someone with a sharp eye might take notice of the black, ceramic pipes sitting under the heat shields vs. the stock, blued-chrome pipes.
So, all told… and not including the time spent loading and updating the software on the laptop, it was about a 3-hour project.
We have yet to take it out for a ride — leaving in about 30 minutes — but the sound is very different from stock: a deep, throating rumble at idle… which Debbie likes. I’ll have to get used to it, as it strikes me as being a bit loud. I’m thinking the 1.75″ cores would have been a good choice. On the bright side, swapping out cores seems like it would be a pretty quick and easy thing to do…
Anyway, here’s a very short video that captures the sound at idle. Note that the tail lights are LEDs, hence the strobe effect captured by the video camera.
I’m cautiously optimistic that we’ve got a winner here! A big thank you to Steve, Cammy and the other folks at Fullsac in Lake Havasu, Arizona.